Brace for Impact

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Tomorrow is the last day of classes. I use that term lightly, because we really only hand in our essay, some groups present, and then we have a debriefing before lunch. After that it's all downhill until Monday. On that day, I leave at about eight in the morning for Otavalo to meet with my boss and my family. After that brief meeting, I'll be off to settle in and possible begin my internship that same day.

It's going to be very different. I'll be going from an urban setting with two older parents and an older brother, all of whom have their own busy lives, to a village with three younger siblings and two dogs. Right now, I'm ready for all of that, but who's to say once I am working 30 hour weeks, writing an ethnography, and still trying to enjoy the culture and the experience.

I'm sure I will learn a lot from my internship and my new family. Without Cimas and a room full of English-speakers, my language skills should greatly improve just by living my life as normal. I'll miss my classmates and my free time, but it's high time to begin the independent part of the program and, quite honestly, I'm ready to be done with Quito. I've had some good times in this city, but keeping an eye on security and relying on taxis for everything gets old very fast.

Peguche is a small village predominantly composed of Kichwa artisans. Hopefully this means I will be able to relax a bit and get to know my neighbors. Otavalo, while a bit larger, is still by no means Quito. The main crime problem in Otavalo is pickpocketing among the crowds on market days. Since I no longer carry a wallet and won't have much cash on me at any time being a "local," I can't see myself having any problems. The only real problems I need to remember are natural: I especially need to check what I eat and drink (for the first few weeks at least) and I need to maintain altitude and sun precautions, as Inti will still be disposed to char my tender flesh.

The Crave List

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Before lunch today some of my classmates and I discussed the things that are making our stomachs homesick and, unsurprisingly, many were the same. We all appear to be jonesin' for some kind of fast food (many for more than one type) as well as a few regional or unusual blends. Here is my personal list (and yes, most are horrible):

Brownies
Sweet 'n' Spicy Chili Doritos
Taco Bell Chalupa Supreme
Taco Bell Crunchwrap Supreme
Blue & Grey Café buffalo chicken meal deal
Waffles
Lunch meat sandwiches
Hummus
Lehigh Pizza with meatballs
Real milk
Assorted teas
Isaac's Pipet
Fistfuls of cake from work

The Latest News

Monday, October 11, 2010

Indeed has it been a busy time since I last wrote, however it has been a lot of the same. Last week was composed entirely of schoolwork and errands. Both essays went over well and the presentation was peachy. During the week, I finally got my censo, meaning I can get citizen rates on touristy things and, most importantly, I can leave the country (since I'm here on a visa, not passport).

It was already decided by mid-week that we were going to the beach, so Brittany, Francisco and I saddled up the taxi and headed to the bus terminal that would take us to Bahía de Caráquez in the central Pacific coast. Luckily, we bought our tickets during the day; the bus station was a stand with a parking lot in the most terrifying neighborhood I have ever visited. I would have taken a picture but I'm pretty sure there's an ordinance that says that anyone with electronics will be immediately stabbed. We got our tickets along with some lunch and the legendary salchipapas, which is a wax paper bag filled with fries, ketchup, and mayonnaise and topped with tiny hot dogs.

It finally came time to go to the beach (at 10:30p on Thursday) so we headed back to the 'station.' The taxi driver seemed pretty convinced we were going to die before getting on the overnight bus, so he drove us over the curb and up to the edge of the station. We got on with no trouble and slept most of the way. I awoke with both kidneys, so I already knew the trip would be a success.

Once in Bahía, we opted to head up the shore to Canoa. We hopped in a public bus brimming with school children, hopped off at the wharf, got on a boat to cross the bay, and climbed on a motorcycle taxi to Canoa. Canoa is where the locals go when they want to go to the beach. It is two streets and neither is paved. We had breakfast and suited up for a day of sun and surf...

I barely dodged a debilitating sunburn

Over lunch we met Leo, the (debatable) longboard surf champion of the country who was preparing the head to Peru for the South American championships. His (debatable) cousin Jorge met with us at dinner to sell raffle tickets. We did not win.

Saturday morning, we spent a few more hours in Canoa before getting in a dump truck with a paper "Taxi" sign and returning to the wharf that would return us to Bahía. We checked in to Coco Bongo, which had enormous rooms and a private balcony. We explored the town and watched some sort of parade...the purpose is still unknown. We went to bed early and awoke early the next day to return to Quito. To give an idea of how the return trip went, the bus played the first three 'Lethal Weapon' movies back to back to back. Yeah, it went that well.

Otavalo III/¡Huelga!

Friday, October 1, 2010

We in the Public Health concentration track had known for a while that there was an observation trip but little did I know that it would be in Otavalo. Again. Luckily, I like the 'valo, so missing class to go to my future location of retirement was no skin off my back. We left from Cimas at seven on Tuesday morning and drove to Hospital 'San Luis' de Otavalo. On a side note, Ecuador is really into unnecessary quotes. There is a store down the street from me that touts its "'Carnes' frescas" (Fresh "Meats"). The hospital caters to both mestizo and Kichwa populations, so all signs are bilingual in Spanish and Kichwa. I began to feel dizzy, so our track coordinator, Vanessa, gave me some orange drink and took me to the magical realm of the ER to get my blood pressure checked. We think it is altitude sickness but it could easily be a reaction to medicine as well.

After the hospital we went to Jambi Huasi, a traditional clinic, where Señoras Conchita and Juanita perform diagnostic rituals with eggs and cuy (guinea pigs). I was the lucky one who received the cuy diagnostics (videos and pictures coming soon). Señora Juanita, who stands eye-to-eye with my sternum, rubbed me down with a live guinea pig. The guinea pig dies in the process (probably due to being swung around by the neck) and is then skinned and gutted, acting as a representation of the client. According to a deceased rodent, I am completely healthy.

Potentially fatal diseases are best described with bunnies

Señora Conchita doing her huevo thing

The group left for Casa Sol, where we would stay the night, for lunch and free time before a lecture on ancestral wisdom and health. In the lecture, we learned some basic plant remedies, however the plants can only be harvested at dawn, noon, dusk, and midnight so that the plant energies are most effective. After that, we performed a wisdom ritual and then walked to the Peguche waterfall just because we could. The sun set, and we had dinner before going into town for pies, empanadas, and phone minutes.

Casa Sol is famous for being designed by the Kichwas and painted by first graders

On Thursday we went to Cotacachi, a leatherworkers' village north of Otavalo, to learn about traditional birthing methods in Jambi Mascaric, a center for health and education catering to the Kichwa community. The demonstration took longer than some actual births but I suppose for some members of the group it was helpful and interesting. In recent news, Francisco is a new father.

Just some birth, no big deal

Baby José makes his debut

A group of obvious locals enjoys the scenery of Lake Cuicocha

Double mountain mayhem

When we got back on the bus we learned about the state of affairs of the nation. For those who do not yet know, the police began protesting a new law that would allegedly limit their benefits. The police began burning tires in the street and took the Quito airport and a bridge in Guayaquil. President Correa took to the street, where he was hit and tear gassed. After this, he was rushed to the hospital to be treated, which was promptly surrounded by police. The military and the police got into a shootout with rubber bullets, but two police officers died in the standoff (six to this minute). Correa's supporters busted him out and took him to the presidential palace where he gave a speech denouncing the protest as uninformed and unprofessional (as the ones who are meant to keep the law are the very ones who brought on the anarchy) and suggested that it was an attempted coup d'etat by former president Lucio Gutiérrez. People in the States who say that Obama is charismatic have never heard Rafael Correa speak. Maybe it was because of the situation, but there is a reason he has such a high approval rating.

Back to the task at hand, Dr. Suárez, the Cimas program director, would not let us return to Quito, so we joined with the Education track (also in Otavalo) to stay at Casa Sol and watch the aforementioned events unfold. We also learned how to play Cuarenta and heard some good Ecuadorean jokes.

This morning we were finally cleared for takeoff, so we came back to Quito where we were debriefed and met some of the students from the University of Washington who will be with Cimas for a few weeks. All that and a nap and here I am, although the state of emergency will continue through the weekend.